Model – Alexandra Agoston
New creation by Anthony Nader as seen in Laud Magazine.
Ten sponge doughnuts were sewn into each other for this skyscraper of curls and I really wanted to build something that really tested my skills as I’m always up for a new trick or two. Once that was secured and added a whole bunch of human hair wefts and curled them on a medium hot tong as I new I was going to stretch out the curls dramatically. Starting at the nape and sculpting the hair into “S” bends and pinning using my French pins and forming the tall shape by using the mirror which was so vital for this look as it was all about balance. Pinning my way to the top and leaving some ends out so the hairstyle looks editorial feeling and not formal like and stiff which is not a part of my RAW signature. Funny enough I didn’t use any hairspray as if the foundation has a strong structure from the start you never have t go overboard with spray. The best part about this shot to me personally is that it wasn’t stretched out in post to appear longer and wider………this was the final edit.
SKIN PREP: M.A.C fast eye response cream, pat in with your finger tips around the eye and in any open pores. Apply M.A.C strobe cream to the upperside of the cheekbones, upper lip cupids bow, chin, and finely down the centre of the nose (not all the way to the tip)
FOUNDATION: Apply the Armani Luminous silk foundation a combination of number 3 & 6, all over using the large brush from mymakeupbrushset.com (oval brush set). Buff the foundation in to create a flawless finish ensuring that you see the delicate freckles on Lisanne’s face.Apply foundation gently on the lips for this look as I want to take out the natural pink.
CONCEALER & CONTOUR: Kryolan’s Dermacolour has been in my kit from the first day I started at makeup school having tried many I still revert back to this.
Place on the back of your hand to add warmth to the product this helps it to blend, when working concealer under the eyes I mix it in with the foundation.
I used a dark warm brown shade to create shape under the cheekbone, temporal hollows and the foreheads, blending away, I used the small oval brush to contour from mymakeupbrushset (oval brush 10 piece). Add depth to the contour under the cheek by using with M.A.C mineralise powder in medium tan, apply with an angled brush form designer makeup tools small contour blush brush 917-18. As this powder can be used as a setting powder I’m able to work straight over the contour cream to add depth to my contour without it grabbing.I then used the matte brown shadow Congo from Kryolan’s Melbourne shades pallet to add another layer and a little more intensity directly under the cheekbone from the hairline about a third of the way down the cheekbone use a compact dense angled brush. Remember always blend.
POWDER: Use M.A.C no colour powder and apply with a small eyeshadow brush under the eye. Once you’ve seen the shot under the lights and on camera apply a small amount of powder to any hot spots that need it. The skin in this shoot needs to talk and have life so I didn’t matte it out, I used very little powder on this shoot as the light and the brief didn’t call for it.
EYES: Apply M.A.C paint point in stormy pink from the lash line to the socket line then blend up to the brow bone using M.A.C 217SH brush. The Kryolan pallet shades Melbourne is the hero for this look apply Congo (matte brown) using a large flat shadow brush to the inner side of the nose, socket line and outer corner of the eye blending edges up and out no harsh lines I used the Designer makeup stools super large eyeshadow brush 729-18. Apply the same colour to the lower lash line using a finer brush, Use Golden Sand in the Kryolan pallet to blend and highlight the lower lid on the inner corner to tweak the eyes and lightly work in the Eggplant shade to the outer corner.
BROWS: Brush up the brows, Use the M.A.C eyebrow gel in dip down painting hair like strokes to the brow using the designer makeup tools 119k sable lip brush. This brush is bent making it easy to apply the fine strokes
LIPS: Apply Revlon’s lip pencil in nude all over the lip then press over with your fingertip to soften any strong edges.